I had a request from a client recently to magnetise the weapons on a space marine Drop Pod, and as I keep thinking that I should try my best to give back to the community in the form of tutorials, I decided this was the perfect opportunity to try it out! Continue reading Magnetising a Space Marine Drop Pod
The characters for the predator diorama are progressing nicely, I mixed up a spot on skintone for Mac and Dillion using rhinox hide and bugmans glow, the highlights are very very subtle but were created by adding a touch more bugmans glow and a dab of cadian fleshtone to the base mix.
Next on the frankly enormous list of projects is a wood elf army, and here’s a WiP of a dryad (since this picture was taken I’ve added a few glazes and scratches.)
and lastly, here’s some more lamenters!
One of the bigger projects we have on at the moment (but not the biggest, more will be revealed in coming weeks) is a Lamenters Space Marine army, which so far, has been a blast to paint.
For anyone wishing to recreate this particular scheme it’s very important that you start with a brown basecoat. Why you ask? well, black tends to have tiny amounts of blue mixed in to give it depth, and we all know what happens when yellow and blue get together.
For this armour we’ve used a vermin brown basecoat (its and old discontinued GW colour but any darkish sandy brown will do the trick).
next we’ve airbrushed yriel yellow as the next layer, focusing on the uppermost parts of the models . After that its Flash Gitz yellow followed by a 50/50 mix of Flash Gitz yellow and White Scar, both through the airbrush and with the area they cover getting smaller as the colours get lighter.
Edge highlights were done with VMC (Vallejo Model Colour) Pale Sand and then the whole thing was glazed with GW Lamenters yellow, which tied everything together nicely.
The chips were sponged and brushed on with Eshin Grey and a thin highlight placed underneath each chip and scratch with Pale Sand.
So far we have an assault squad and a tactical squad done this way, with a unit of terminators and several drop pods also to be done.
This is a quick run-through which is hopefully easy to follow, but there is a step-by-step on the way which will go all the way to a completed figure.
Thanks for reading!
Don’t ask about the title, it came to me in a flash of inspiration, and made me chuckle. They’ll probably get worse before this year is out.
Anyway, onto the purpose of this post, Ferrus Manus is all done, completed to a relatively high tabletop level and ready to ship to the customer tomorrow. After doing two of these I’m sorely tempted to repose one, especially as the arms are totally separate and the only cutting would be on the legs.
Now you’re asking where the predator is aren’t you? yes you are, I can tell.
This is a private commission from a regular customer of mine who loves getting Predator figures done. This one is WiP of a very nice figure from Predastore.ch for which I’ve created a custom base from super sculpey, a gw cold one lizard head and a generous sprinkling of greenstuff.
Well, it’s about time I did another post really! Although I update the facebook page quite frequently, writing a blog post seems to be more difficult, which is very odd because I do enjoy writing. It seems that when I have pictures to post I can find nothing better to say than “look, here’s a shiny picture, enjoy” which is no good to anyone as anything more than a spot of eye candy.
Anyway, on with the eye candy for the moment, I will seriously try to do something with a bit more depth later this week.
First up is another figure from the predastore
A cracking sculpt to work with, but it is VERY fiddly to assemble. Also a first for me is the use of natural leaves. I bought the Deep Forest premium basing kit from basecrafts.com and was very impressed, you get a really nice selection of foliage, leaf litter and other assorted effects, along with some really nice resin tree pieces, including some broken tree stumps and various larger fallen trees.
Next up we have a red, grey knights stormraven, painted to match a clients army. I do love weathering vehicles and I think that shows here, even if it is quite subtle.
And lastly for this post we have two wraithknights. I think the total wraithknights I’ve painted so far is getting close to ten, they’ve been the most popular thing for people to order so far, although I’m sure this will all change with the upcoming release of the new Space Marines Codex and associated miniatures.
Well, it looks like I’m slowly getting the hang of blogging In a reasonably timely manner (instead of having a bit of a ‘moment’ around 11pm and posting very late). Today’s shiny pictures are of my Disciples of Caliban, finally finished and photographed with some degree of success.
To be honest I probably won’t carry on with the army as something just doesn’t feel right. I think there’s a lot to be said for picking an army based on their background, it’s a very personal thing and speaks to us wargamers in a special way. You have to feel a connection with the army you pick, and thus far, neither Dark Angels or Disciples of Caliban have made me want to do anything more than the odd character or single squad. Space Sharks, however, are a different story, I adore their very limited fluff and like the tribal style designs shown in Forgeworld’s Badab wars books. Both versions of their chapter name however are very silly. Anyone that has any suggestions is welcome to chime in on the comments….not blood angels though, anything but the space vampires.
With the weekend now over, Chris’ ‘challenge within a challenge’ has come to an end. Basically, the premise was to each paint up a sergeant by the end of the weekend.
Chris Seadon came up with this superb Destroyers sergeant for his pre heresy Death Guard army
There’s some really nice details on this mini, but the stand out feature is the armour, that glorious rad-blackened armour. it has a lovely (if such a word can be used for anything Death Guard related) depth to it, and the dusty, matte finish really makes it look the part.
My part in this mini challenge comes in the form of a kitbashed Dark Vengeance Sergeant Raphael, (with space wolf legs and blood angel arms) for my Disciples of Caliban army. It was fun to paint I must say, especially the face, for which I used the ‘eavy metal space hulk tutorial found in a old-ish copy of white dwarf (It’s still available in pdf form over on the Games Workshop site, just google ‘space hulk masterclass’ and it’s the top result)
An honourable mention goes to Alisdair, who did not manage to finish his sergeant in time for the mini challenge. Mild mockery will ensue regarding his timekeeping, however his miniature, as always, is stunning.
Take a good look at Ali’s Blood Angel and see if you can spot all the work that has gone into this model, there’s sculpting work all over the place but most will not spot it until it’s pointed out. Another rather lovely model to look at which, along with Chris’s, set’s the bar high.
As for other updates posted on our Facebook page, here are Alisdair’s and Chris’s Squad updates and a couple of pics from our latest entry into the challenge, Demetris Tampakoudis (better known as DaemonPrinceDargor on Bolter & Chainsword)
As soon as everyone has a squad update posted i’ll jam it all together here on the site.
Happy Painting Everyone!
One thing that many new starters don’t get told is how to prep a miniature for paint. It’s a fairly simple process, but it does take time and can be the most unappealing part of miniature painting. So here are my top 5 tips on prepping miniatures. These are mostly aimed at beginners, so If it feels like I’m teaching you to suck eggs, don’t despair, more advanced stuff is on it’s way!
1: Take your time.
I know that when you’re starting out on the glorious road to painting stardom with thoughts of a fully painted army marauding across the battle field on your mind, you just want to get to the good bit straight away. I know I used to.
When I first started out, I tore straight into the boxes, quickly clipped off any obvious pieces of flash (excess material from the casting process) and mashed the model together before splashing paint all over it in a fairly unorthodox manner.
Now I’ve been doing it for a while, I know that the care taken with preparing the miniature has a direct effect on the outcome of your paintjob. The longer you spend making sure your model is smooth and free of mould-lines, the better your paintjob will look and the quicker you’ll learn. It’s easier to see how to improve your blending for example, when you don’t have to try and look past a rough surface.
2: Use the right tool for the job
The expenditure required to start this hobby is more than people think, the models can cost a small fortune, as can amassing a decent collection of paints or the rulebooks needed to play a game. It would be a huge shame to ruin an expensive model by trying to clean it up with a potato peeler (an extreme example, but you see where I’m going with this)
If you’re dealing with a large lump of flash, use the side cutters. If you’re looking at a small mould line, use the scalpel to scrape it off (have the blade at a 150 degree angle with the sharp edge closest, then scrape away from your body. Having the blade angled the other way, you risk the knife digging into the miniature and damaging it.) (Obviously hold the piece in your other hand for stability, I couldn’t as I was taking the photo). And if you’re looking at a mould line a bit bigger, use the needle files to get rid of it.
When you start out, budget for a few simple tools. A scalpel, a pair of small side cutters, some needle files and a cutting mat.
on the subject of side cutters, the angled ones that Games Workshop sell are good enough for the job but don’t last long, so it’s worth shopping around. There are cutters with a rounded head available but they make cutting some sprues a bit tricky. Scalpels are personal preference as to what feels comfortable, personally I use the GW scalpel handle with Swann Morton blades. (Swann Morton make surgical equipment too, so the blades they make are the sharpest I’ve ever found. Seriously, it’s like using a small power sword.) The GW handle is surprisingly comfortable to use.
3: Measure twice, cut once
It might seem a little out of place here, but the old carpenters adage of “measure twice, cut once” is useful for our purposes. The essence of it is to look carefully at what needs doing on the miniature before diving in. This way you can see any potential problems like awkward to get to mould lines or miscasts. Look for things that look out of place (compare with the picture on the box if you have one).
4: Put it down
odd one this, but it works for me. Once you think you’ve cleaned up all the mould lines, clipped off any flash etc, put the model down and work on something else. A degree of patience is needed with this but it’s worth it. Once you’ve done something else for a bit, go back to the model and have a look at it again, fresh eyes may pick up something else that you missed. I can tell you, finding these missed bits of flash are VERY annoying if you find them during painting.
5: Wash it
Once you’ve finished taking off mould lines and flash, give the miniature a quick wash under some warm water with washing up liquid and scrub it gently with an old toothbrush. There’s no point doing this before you’ve cleaned off all the mould lines because you’ll be handling the model a lot and of course, there’s oil on our fingertips all the time. The quick scrub with washing up liquid just removes the oil residue and any mould release left on the model (again, a leftover from the casting process, it quite literally helps the miniature be released from the mould)
These oils and mould release will prevent any undercoat from sticking to your miniature properly and subsequently make painting it a royal pain in the rear.
Note: If you’re dealing with Finecast (Games Workshop’s new resin which has taken over from most of their metal models) Make sure the water is cold or lukewarm, water that is too warm will make the miniature very, very soft and you could end up damaging something permanently.
I hope that these tips have been of use, feel free to add your thoughts in the comments.