Experimental. This is the word I would probably choose to describe this post.
After the black tutorial did so well (thanks to everyone who read and shared it!), it became a question of what to follow it with. There have been many suggestions, all of which will be used at some point or another.
I decided that its all very well me showing you how to do things step by step, but how do you apply these techniques and thinking to your own models?
So in-between normal tutorials which will cover things like how to paint textured leather, and the perennial subject of skintones, I’m going to paint without having a real plan of what to do, so you can have an insight into the decision making process, and what happens when things go horribly wrong (which they will do, it happens to all of us at some point).
So here it is, the first proper painting tutorial for The Goldfish of Justice.
First of all let’s get the basics out of the way.
Thinner is better in this case, about the same consistency as milk for your first highlight layer, and from then on even thinner, 3:1 or even 4:1 in favour of water and some of my black glazes are pretty much just slightly tinted water. You can use less diluted paint if you wish, but you’ll be spending a lot more time blending and smoothing out the transitions between colours. The diluted paints also go some way towards negating the ‘chalky’ look that sometimes happens when putting pale colours onto black because you can build the layers up and glazes take less effort. Continue reading The Black Tutorial→
A quick post with some updated photos of a tank I’ve been working on, its an Emhar MKiv British tadpole, an experimental trench crossing version of the much loved MKiv male tank, interestingly it appears that the tadpole was never used in combat due to not being rigid enough to fufill its purpose. Despite that though it remains a cracking looking beast!
As far as the kit itself is concerned, well, it seems to be a fairly old mould with plenty of flash and ill-fitting parts but once you’ve wrangled everything into position it looks quite good, even with the rubber tracks (which i hope to replace with metal versions at a later date).
If anyone has any questions then feel free to pop them in the comments!
So, here it is finally, a review of the new Mk2 Brushes from BrokenToad!
First of all, if you’ve not heard of BrokenToad before, then you will soon, because the business is going from strength to strength, now with an impressive roster of busts to go along with the hobby supplies.
2 years ago BrokenToad started by selling a range of high quality weathering pigments (I think i’ve mentioned them in a previous post, but they are rather good) and then soon after branched out by offering what is now known as the Mk1 brushes.
Anyone that follows me on Facebook will know that I’m a big fan of these original brushes and have had several sets due to a great combination of quality, affordability and durability. I’m notoriously hard on my brushes (described by friends as ‘brutal’) simply because of the volume of models I paint, and it was nice to find something that wouldn’t break the bank when i needed to replace them, lasted longer and performed easily as well as Windsor & Newton’s series 7 (this is probably a point of contention for some of you, I’m aware that a brush is a very personal decision for a painter so just take this as my opinion based on my experience rather than gospel).
When BrokenToad announced the imminent arrival of Mk2 brushes earlier this year I knew I had to have some, and now, I have.
So how do they compare? Well, first of all they come in the same nice box that the Mk1 brushes had, with the same brush care note inside.
Its off to a good start inside because the brushes themselves instantly look like a higher quality product, the lacquer on the handle is slightly thicker which gives a smoother, more professional appearance.
The brush handles are also slightly longer with a touch more weight at the end, this gives it more balance than previous versions.
At the business end of the brush things are also good, with longer bristles made from Kolinksy Sable and a slightly larger belly (the middle section of the bristles between the tip and where they meet the ferrule, also called the ‘heel’) on the size 1 and 2.
One thing I will note is that the 3/0 is a lot narrower now, making it a true fine detail brush rather than the general workhorse I’ve always used it for.
Here’s the results of me playing with the brushes.
The bristles on the brushes have excellent flexibility and bounce back into shape nicely once pressure is released, if you have a brush that has no ‘bounce’ and is too soft you have no feel and can’t judge brushstrokes accurately.
Price wise the full set is the same excellent £24 for all four brushes, available from brokentoadstore.co.uk
All in all they’re an excellent improvement over the Mk1’s, even though strictly speaking you’d need to be painting 12 hours a day, 7 days a week to notice the extra weight, but as that’s what I generally do I though it worth mentioning!
Normally I try to pick up on any negative aspects when doing a review, to try and give the fairest, most honest review I can, but in this case there’s not a great deal I can say, my only comment would be that I’ll probably move from the 3/0 to the 0 as my workhorse brush, but even this is a personal choice based on efficiency as a commission painter, I pick the brush with the widest range of abilities that suits me best.
Thanks for reading
I’d like to do more reviews, so if you have any thoughts about the review itself (too long, too short, way too wordy for a review of brushes?) let me know in the comments
With the release of Mafuku, Kaha miniatures are once again fleshing out the world of Oroko, A world populated by fearsome tribes of warrior creatures, Barbarians, monks and monsters.
With a mix of inspiration ranging from Chinese mythology to Norse vikings (and most recently time travellers) the universe Kaha Miniatures have created is pretty unique.
Mafuku himself is an imposing beast at 68mm, Sculpted by Cyril Roquelaine and Fancagne Didier it certainly fits the bill as the elder of the Nakaema tribe with lots of nice details such as the many scars and various jewelry or possibly trophies that adorn him.
Overall its a very nice sculpt, the body in particular looks like a lot of fun to paint, with texture that’s just right in terms of depth so it won’t hamper the brush strokes but a glaze or selective wash will still bring out the detail.
The same cannot be said for the head, which personally i find a little too heavily textured for my liking, but its nothing a seasoned figure won’t be able to fix (should they wish to, remember, this is really all down to personal taste).
All the parts fit snugly with very little in the way of gaps. However my copy did come with one side that had a small amount of mold slip (This is exactly what it sounds like, the two halves of the mold have slipped slightly, causing a ‘stepped effect’ down the mold line of the figure. ) , This could cause a problem with regards to the sculpted detail of the skin, and will be a challenge to fix without obscuring anything.
Despite the casting flaw though, it is a lovely figure, and a fitting rendition of the concept art Kaha provide with the model itself.
I say fitting, because this was reportedly the last piece of concept art created by the incredibly talented artist Wayne England before he sadly passed away earlier this year.
Almost every war gamer and Magic: The Gathering player will know of Wayne’s artwork in one form or another, including this iconic image of a Chaos Terminator from the Warhammer 40,000 universe
I’ve been a huge fan of Wayne’s work from an early age, as his iconic skulls and emblem artwork were among the first Warhammer and 40k artwork I ever saw when I was old enough to wonder what that strange ‘White Dwarf’ magazine sat in a dark corner of the local hobby shop was.
RIP Wayne England
Follow along as I take my miniature painting to the next level, and learn how to do the same.